was purity and there was the dream, and the adventure, and there was the
counterculture aspect. It was like shove society, shove the nine to five, shove
the rules... we're just going to follow our hearts, treat each other well, eat
well and enjoy the ocean. It was not for money and it wasn't for fame... that's
what we're gunna do... purely because that's what our hearts want to do. That
— Jim Banks (quote from the Switch-foot book)
I can’t follow that up with something smarter. Let me just say that 2011 was a great year for surf and for so much else. While the world turns upside down around us we still have an ‘out’. We give surfing so much because it gives us back so much. If you surf then you know. And if you don’t surf, you should. Here are some of my favourite shots from 2011. Enjoy!
I’ll try and keep this spot updated during 2012 sharing my surfs and photo sessions. If you want to get in touch please email me at email@example.com. I would love to hear from you!